Reviving a dormant brand is an undertaking filled with promise yet fraught with challenges — a task made exponentially more daunting when the names being resurrected belong to the very visionaries who pretty much laid the foundations of modern fine watchmaking. Such is the case with Gérald Genta and Daniel Roth. Both brands, originally established by their eponymous founders, eventually came under Bvlgari’s ownership after navigating various twists of fate and have been relaunched as independent entities within the LVMH watch portfolio, under the guidance of Jean Arnault, director of marketing and development for Louis Vuitton’s watch division.

While Gérald Genta had, at his own brand, demonstrated a relentless ambition towards highly complicated watchmaking as a natural extension of his intricate designs, LVMH has taken a design-led approach to its revival, beginning with a sophisticated and refreshing recreation of the ’90s Oursin. Meanwhile, Daniel Roth has been relaunched much like its debut in 1989, starting with the Daniel Roth Tourbillon — an exemplary recreation of the C187, which was the foundational model of the original company and with which Roth’s now-iconic double-ellipse case and tourbillon were introduced. Initially launched as a subscription model in yellow gold in 2023 and later in rose gold, the Tourbillon not only met but exceeded expectations on many levels as it demonstrated a level of maturity in being able to preserve the integrity and spirit of the original while incorporating many modest yet meaningful refinements.

Now the brand has unveiled the Extra Plat Souscription, which is a remake of the ultra-thin time-only C107 and C167 models introduced by Daniel Roth in the early ‘90s. The C107 was released in 1990, a year after the launch of the tourbillon, and was powered by the automatic Frederic Piguet 71. This ultra-thin movement, with its distinctive off-center rotor, was one Roth had previously worked with during his time at Breguet, where it served as the base for the Breguet perpetual calendar ref. 3050. The C107 was produced in all three colours of gold and measured 38mm by 35mm and 6.7mm thick. A year later, the C167 followed. It was a smaller and slimmer, 34.3mm × 31.4mm hand-wound model that incorporated the Frederic Piguet 21, a legendary ultra-thin movement dating back to the dawn of wristwatches. Measuring just 1.73mm in height compared to the cal. 71’s 2.4mm thickness, it allowed for a slimmer case at 6mm. Despite their differences in dimensions, both models shared Roth’s hallmark double ellipse case and pinstripe or hobnail guilloché dial.

Like the Tourbillon Souscription, the new Extra Plat Souscription is in yellow gold and limited to 20 pieces. Similarly, it will be available on a subscription basis in a nod to the “souscription” watches created by Breguet. The case is similar in proportions to the C107; it measures 38.6 by 35.5mm and 7.7mm in height. Like the Tourbillon model, both the watch and the movement of the Extra Plat reflect a sense of tasteful restraint that lets the quality of execution and materials speak for themselves. As we have seen in the Tourbillon model, one of the most notable differences is the case lugs. While rather angular and stark on the original, the new lugs are smaller with a slight downward curvature, ensuring the watch wears more closely to its stated dimensions. In a nod to tradition, they are individually soldered to the case middle and the case back is solid.

The dial is composed of two solid yellow gold components: a base and an applied chapter ring. The base showcases a hobnail guilloché pattern, while the chapter ring features a ratchet border design. Both patterns are engine-turned by hand, a process that took over 10 hours to complete. While the guilloché work on the Tourbillon watches was entrusted to Kari Voutilainen, the dial of the new Extra Plat is crafted internally at La Fabrique du Temps after acquiring antique engine-turning machines and recruiting a skilled artisan. While the print on the dial were in black on the original yellow gold C107, the printed markings and numerals are in a vibrant blue in the new model, matching the blued steel hands.

The most significant difference is the movement, which is an all-new ultra-thin calibre developed from scratch. Measuring just 3.1mm high, the new hand-wound shaped calibre DR002 has a similar style to DR001 tourbillon movement but the train configuration and bridge design are manifestly different and runs at 28,800 vph in 21 jewels, with an 65-hour power reserve. While the DR001 has a black polished bridge that supports the third wheel, the DR002 does away with it. It still has a three-bridge design but they are delineated as such: winding and barrel bridge, train bridge and balance cock – all of which are finished with Côtes de Genève. Images are unavailable at the moment but you can expect the same quality of finishing and the same pleasing, logical bridge design that incorporates sharp corners in a harmonious and natural manner. While the movement is concealed behind a solid back in the Souscription model, the subsequent versions will likely feature display backs, as seen with the Tourbillon model. But in its utter refusal to pander, the solid-back Souscription model certainly has an enormous appeal.

The price of the Extra Flat Souscription is CHF 45,000, which seems like a relative bargain considering the steep prices associated with fine watchmaking over the past couple of years. It is, in essence, a very thoughtfully handled exercise in recreation and an exceptionally dignified piece of watchmaking that, in its commitment to excellence and qualitative simplicity, offers a rare sense of authenticity in a landscape dominated by flash.

Tech Specs: Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription

Movement: Manual-winding DR002 Caliber; 65-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes
Case: 38.6mm × 35.5mm (7.7mm thick); 18K yellow gold 3N; water-resistant to 30m
Dial: 18k Yellow gold 3N with Clous de Paris guilloché
Strap: Calfskin leather with 18K yellow gold buckle
Availability: Limited to 20 pieces
Price: CHF 45,000