A pioneering independent watchmaker who made his mark in the late 1980s, Daniel Roth is a name that will always hold a special place in collectors’ hearts. Whether for his monumental contributions to modern Breguet or his stunning watch designs, which remain unique and appealing even after three decades, his legacy endures.

Roth, who is now nearing 80, was a key figure in the history of modern tourbillon wristwatches through his pivotal role at Breguet. His involvement began in 1975 after Breguet was acquired by the Chaumet brothers, who aimed to restore the brand to its former glory. Central to this effort was the re-introduction of the tourbillon – fittingly, as Breguet was famously its inventor. Roth was instrumental in developing Breguet’s first modern tourbillon wristwatch, the ref. 3350.

Following his influential time at Breguet, Daniel Roth established his own brand, creating a series of extraordinary watches renowned for their distinctive design and exceptional craftsmanship. Among his most celebrated creations was his first watch, the iconic tourbillon C187.

Today, under the supervision of Jean Arnault, the Daniel Roth brand has been revived with a commitment to staying true to its original spirit. LVMH rightfully calls it a revival, as the watches remain faithful to the originals while benefiting from notable refinements, particularly in dial decoration, fit and finish, and the development of in-house movements.

The revival began with the Tourbillon Souscription, and has now extended to a regular production model—the Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold. This new version is even more attractive, featuring a pink-on-pink palette and, most importantly, an open case back that reveals the new DR001 movement.

Distinctive and distinguished

Anyone who has had the chance to handle the new Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold in person walks away with the same thought – it feels surprisingly good. While that might sound like a simple observation, it speaks volumes. The reason the Tourbillon stands out comes down to two main things: its thoughtful design and the quality of its execution.

Starting with the design, the most striking feature is the double-ellipse case. It was unique and elegant when it was introduced over thirty years ago, and it still holds up today. More than just a signature look, it reflects the spirit of Daniel Roth himself. It’s a statement of independence, reminding us why watchmakers strike out on their own: to create something free from corporate constraints, something that reflects their vision, passion, and struggles.

A scene from the movie P.S. I Love You puts it perfectly. Holly tells her future husband, “If you don’t figure out this ‘something’, you’ll stay ordinary. It doesn’t matter if it’s a work of art, a taco, or a pair of socks – just create something. And there it is – it’s you, out in the world.”

The double-ellipse case is, in essence, Mr. Roth out in the world. That’s why it’s commendable that LVMH has revived the Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold with such care and respect – not just as a tribute to the original vision, but also as a chance for a new generation of collectors to experience a great watch.

It’s worth noting that the new case maintains the same size as the original, measuring 38 mm by 35 mm. However, it’s not a simple reproduction; it has been redesigned to look and feel better. One significant change is the positioning of the protruding band around the case, which is now more centered between the bezel and the back, thanks to a thinner back. In comparison, the vintage original had a band that sat a bit too high, resulting in a disproportionately thick back.

Then there are the lugs, which are now rounded and curved downward for better wearability. These changes highlight the attention to detail by LVMH in reviving the watch, as they strive to preserve the strengths of the original while subtly elevating them.

Another standout feature is the dial layout. Unlike most tourbillon watches with a simple round aperture, Roth had the clever idea to use a larger, fan-shaped opening that reveals part of the baseplate. This creates a striking two-level effect, like a stage with an audience, adding depth that’s rare in wristwatches, no matter how complicated the dials are.

Both key aspects of a watch – the time display and the mechanics – are combined into a balanced composition. One-third of the dial is dedicated to the tourbillon, while the other two-thirds is solid guilloché. The transition between the two is both decorative and functional: the triple fan-shaped plates above the tourbillon act as second scales, with three pointers of varying lengths attached to the tourbillon, each taking turns to indicate the seconds on its corresponding scale.

The guilloché work cleverly uses colors and textures to create a standout section and a background. For instance, the hour and minute sub-dial and the seconds track are just small parts of the whole dial. This separation of forms and colors adds depth and makes the dial more interesting. Particularly beautiful is the guilloché on the frame of each element. The design draws inspiration from old-school Breguet pocket watches, and it’s impressive how Daniel Roth made it his own – preserving that classic watchmaking feel while maintaining his style.

One thing that really caught my attention is the selection of guilloché patterns on the dial. The linear pattern is simple – very simple compared to many modern engine-turned watches – but it’s effective in creating a grand aura, a dignified presence. Such restraint in design is rare today, as many brands chase complexity for the sake of distinction.

This also brings us to another important point: the quality of execution. Many of these elements are designed to be visually simple, with nothing overly flashy that grabs your attention. Instead, they are delicately made to look perfect even under a macro lens. It’s the perfect example of quiet confidence, where the beauty of subtlety and precision speaks louder than extravagance.

The finishing of the guilloché, for example, is exceptionally clean and crisp. Honestly, the quality is far superior to many of the complex patterns seen on the market today, and even better than the original Daniel Roth tourbillon from three decades ago. Then there’s the tourbillon, held under a beautifully finished, rounded bridge, with an elegant cage design with slim, black-polished arms.

Heart of greatness

The highlight of the Tourbillon Rose Gold, aside from the pink-on-pink palette, is undoubtedly the new open case back that reveals the in-house DR001 movement. Conceived by La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), the DR001 does resemble some past tourbillon movements developed by LFT, but it’s still a unique creation with its elliptical shape, specifically made for the watch.

In the past, the vintage Daniel Roth Tourbillon relied on modified Lemania movements, so you could argue that this is the first time the Tourbillon has an in-house movement. However, you could also point out that Daniel Roth established Nouvelle Lemania (now part of Breguet) and was behind many complicated movements developed for various brands, including the one he sourced for his Tourbillon. Philosophical musings aside, there’s no doubt that the new DR001 is much more attractive in terms of construction and finishing compared to the movement in the old Daniel Roth Tourbillon C186 .

What really stands out about the DR001 is that it manages to incorporate many interesting classical elements while maintaining a restrained and understated aesthetic. The layout may be simple, but the devil is in the details.

For example, between the two main plates, there’s a beautifully carved space that showcases the second and third wheels of the gear train, with a stunning third-wheel bridge nestled between them. The bridge is one of the highlights: entirely black-polished, with exquisite bevelling and even an interior angle. Adding to its refinement is the gold chaton securing the jewel, making it a simple yet striking component in both color and finishing.

Another elegant touch is the straight winding click visible at 12 o’clock, just above the barrel. This elongated steel click is fully polished, and it’s a pleasure to watch in action when the watch is being wound.

The bridge design feels natural and unforced, avoiding unnecessary embellishments or awkward sections. It’s not trying too hard to inject interior angles just for the sake of showmanship. Instead, they are executed with tasteful restraint and elegance.

The finishing of these components is quite well executed, particularly the polished bevels on the bridges, as well as on other elements like the jewel countersinks and barrel ratchet wheel.

Concluding thoughts

The Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold by LVMH is an impressive watch that highlights a key quality in watchmaking: excellence with subtlety. These days, many modern watches tend to stand out in one area – whether it’s the movement, dial decoration, or bold case designs – often leaving other aspects overlooked or underwhelming.

A recent article I came across on filmmaking captured this idea well: “The point is to be familiar and formulaic – in a word, predictable. Forget the degradation of art into content. Content has been demoted to concept. And concept has become a banner ad.” It struck me as a parallel to the current state of watchmaking, where too often designs are created with the aim of instant recognition.

The Daniel Roth Tourbillon, however, avoids this pitfall. Every component is thoughtfully designed, and together, they work harmoniously. It embodies a quiet elegance that reminds us of the great watchmakers of the past.

As impressive as the watch is, it raises an important question: while it’s well-made, is it worth owning the modern version over the original? To some, it might feel like a simple attempt to recreate the past. But take a step back, and you’ll see that without this revival, the Daniel Roth brand could have been lost forever. The Tourbillon, as the first piece in this revival, is a fitting tribute to Mr. Roth’s legacy while showcasing the seriousness behind this effort. The new model actually surpasses the original in quality, particularly in terms of the movement. It’s a clear indication that the brand is now in capable hands.

That said, Daniel Roth was a watchmaker known for his creativity and conviction. The spirit of his work needs to live on in future pieces by LVMH, with watches that stay true to Roth’s classic elements, but also bring something fresh and original, much like how Roth paid tribute to Breguet while forging his own path.