In 1964, Favre Leuba first released the Deep Blue, a skin diving watch that was perfectly suited to the surging popularity of recreational diving. It was a sport that was suddenly accessible to a more mainstream audience, thanks to reliable equipment and popular shows from celebrity divers like Jacques Cousteau.

Now, 60 years on, the dive watch is a staple in any collection, and it’s certainly a staple for the recently relaunched Favre Leuba, where it consists of one of their key pillars, alongside the Chief and the Sea Sky Chronograph. In fact, Favre Leuba has offered not one but two different interpretations of this classic dive watch design: the historically inspired Deep Blue Revival and the more contemporary-minded Deep Blue Renaissance.

The Favre Leuba Deep Blue Revival

Closely following the design of vintage Deep Blue models, the Revival is a 39mm steel-cased dive watch with plenty of historic details. The steel case is 12.75mm thick and rated to 300M, with a striking dial design in sunray-finished grey, surrounded by a steel bezel with a sapphire insert and topped off by a box sapphire crystal which evokes the thick mineral crystals of yesteryear.

But for vintage fans, the dial design is the standout. Crisp and minimal dial printing, with long hour markers in eggshell-hued luminous materials, with cardinal hours elongating into a sector-style design create a dial that feels equally nostalgic and technical; on top of that, the broad-arrow handset is pure 1960s. Even the brand marking is unusual. Instead of the traditional 12 and 6 layout, the Favre Leuba text and hourglass logo are diametrically opposed to the Deep Blue model text and the circular date at four. It’s an unusual design and a real standout. The five-link bracelet is supple and comfortable, while the FLD01 automatic movement, with 68 hours of power reserve, is hidden away behind a solid caseback, another nod to the 1964 original. The Deep Blue Revival is priced at CHF 2,000.

The Favre Leuba Deep Blue Renaissance

Of course, The Favre Leuba isn’t stuck in the past, and the new management for the historic brand has some firm ideas as to what makes for a great dive watch in 20245, and that is exactly what the Deep Blue Renaissance offers. The DNA and legacy of the Revival is still there, but it has been enhanced and modernised. The steel case is 40mm across, 13.24mm tall, and rated to 300M, with a nicely decorated La Joux-Perret G100 automatic visible through the sapphire caseback.

The unidirectional bezel insert is in ceramic and colour-matched to each of the three dial options: deep blue, intense green or anthracite grey. The dials are quite sophisticated in nature, with a gradient colour and sandwich construction for maximum depth. The dial design pays homage to the original, with the extended markers at 12, 3, 6 and 9 creating a sector layout, but here, the brand name and hourglass logo are more centrally balanced. The date remains in the 4:30 position, preserving the overall balance of the dial. Each variation is offered on a rubber strap or a three-link steel bracelet that is quickly interchangeable and is priced at CHF 2,200.

A great dive watch is essential for any brand in 2024, and with the vintage and modern takes on the Deep Blue, it’s clear that Favre Leuba have covered their bases, and laid a strong foundatition for another 60 years of underwater greatness.

Find out more at Favre Leuba.